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Castle ESC Setup and Configuration
These processes may vary depending on your transmitter.
PLEASE leave a comment if there’s a problem with these instructions; I’ll update ASAP.DISCLAIMER: This guide is meant to supplement and outline (and perhaps simplify) the official Castle documentation. Refer to that documentation if you have any questions or concerns.
This is the procedure I use to setup my Edge 100 (Logo 500) and my ICE 120 V2 (T-Rex 700). I run both helis in governor mode with auto-rotation enabled (“bailout” feature).
Step 1: Setup Fixed Endpoints
- Take blades (main and tail) off heli or disengage motor pinion
- Use castle link software to configure as helicopter with fixed endpoints. Enable auto rotation and flip through the other tabs too, setting what you can.
- Make sure throttle output from your receiver is going to ESC (e.g., RX-B on a mini vbar)
- Give normal throttle curve of 0 – 50 – 100 (linear)
- Set your travel adjust on the throttle channel to 40% for high and 40% for low
- Put throttle stick to highest point
- Plug in battery(s) to power up receiver and speed controller
- The speed controller will initialize but won’t arm
- Note: the following steps can be rather frustrating and may take several tries.
- Begin increasing the high travel adjust endpoint 1 point about every one to two seconds
- Usually right around 100 you’ll hear a few beeps. Go two clicks beyond.
- Drop the throttle stick to the lowest point.
- Wait for the tones
- Do the same procedure for the low travel adjust endpoint.
- After you’ve gone two clicks beyond, you’re done.
- Power off the ESC and receiver
- Make sure the settings are saved on your transmitter
- Power cycle your transmitter (just for good measure)
Step 2: Setup Governor Mode
- Take blades (main and tail) off heli or disengage motor pinion
- Follow the steps above if you haven’t configured fixed endpoints
- Use castle link software to configure “Governor Mode” and “Set RPM”
- Configure desired headspeeds, motor parameters, etc. 1800/1900/2000 for example
- Note: If you intend to use “Auto-Rotation Enable” you won’t be able to use headspeed #1 (if you use the method below)
- Configure your “normal” throttle curve as 30% at all points (unless using Auto-Rotation Enable)
- Configure your “idle 1″ throttle curve as 70% at all points
- Configure your “idle 2″ throttle curve as 100% at all points
- Test! You will probably have to tinker with the various speed settings after you get the blades on and try things out.
Step 3: Setup Auto Bailout
Setting up auto-rotation bailout is awesome when you’re trying to learn autos. You can flip out of throttle hold and recover headspeed much faster than if you had to wait for the slow start. If your auto isn’t going to end well, simply disengage throttle hold and fly away.
- Take blades (main and tail) off heli or disengage motor pinion
- Follow the steps above if you haven’t configured fixed endpoints
- Enable throttle hold on your transmitter, set it to 20%
- Configure your “normal” throttle curve as 0% at all points. Going to “normal” mode becomes your “kill switch”.
- Note: After landing don’t forget to return to normal mode before releasing throttle hold; this will ensure you get a slow start.
- Spool up the heli by switching to idle 1
- Flip the throttle hold switch to enable throttle hold; the motor will continue spinning
- Slowly drop the throttle hold value from 20% to 19% to 18% etc.
- When the motor shuts off you have the correct value for throttle hold. Make sure the setting is saved.
- Power cycle receiver, tx, and heli
- Test!